The collection comprises ten looks, presented in pairs. The waist is cinched and the hips are exaggerated throughout. Volumes are overblown but lightness is paramount. Hyper-worked embellishment demonstrates an obsessive attention to detail – and detail within detail. Sharp pressing, multiple folds, quintuple and dégradé pleats, soutache embroidery, triple bulleting, silk and metal thread embroideries, enamelled flowers and more all feature. Rhombic grids lend a sense of graphic modernity to surfaces. Pearls and teardrop pearls evoke beauty and rarity. Hoop skirts, caging and corsetry enhance and idealise a quintessentially feminine silhouette and introduce an erotic undercurrent further suggested by stockings, suspender belts and harnessing. Each look is worn with an embellished ruff: faces are framed.
WOMEN’S AUTUMN/WINTER 2013
THE ECCLESIASTICAL WARDROBE, FROM COMMUNION GOWNS TO CARDINALS’ ROBES. THE HIGH CHURCH. NUNS, POPES, ANGELS. BALLETS RUSSES. VIRGIN QUEEN.